- How do I remove the generator on the "Priore"?
- Further work sequence
- Is it possible to repair a burned generator?
- What do you pay attention to when examining a generator that was removed and disassembled?
- Common causes of generator failure
- Work sequence
- Further disassembly
- Other repair methods
- How to bring the anchor in working condition?
- Implant soldering
- How to insert a “seal”?
Perhaps one of the most important parts of a modern car engine is a generator. Priora from AvtoVAZ is no exception. There are so many electricity consumers in the car today that very much depends on the power of the generator. But what if he suddenly "decided" to break down? First, it’s worth taking off.
How do I remove the generator on the "Priore"?
Dismantling it may be necessary in many cases. Surely many "priorovody" faced with the fact that the required replacement of the alternator belt on the "Priore". Sometimes it is necessary to change this detail, sometimes - somehow to modify. How long does it take to completely remove the generator? "Priora" - the car is quite simple, and therefore it will take relatively little time. More precisely, 40 minutes, but sometimes you have to “poke around” a little longer.
What is needed for this? Just the keys to "10" and "13". Be sure to remove from the battery "negative" terminal. After that, we disassemble the motor mudguard.
- We are looking for the output “D” of the generator, after which we remove the block of wire from there.
- We are looking for where the protective rubber cap “B +” is located, after which we unscrew the fastening nut, which is under it (for this purpose, the key on “10” is used).
- The key to "13" weaken the tension of the tension bar.
- Turning the adjusting bolt counterclockwise, reducing the tension of the generator belt.
Further work sequence
After that you should gently move the generator in the direction of the engine cylinders, then release the "Priora" alternator roller from the belt. Then you need to carefully tighten and finally remove the adjusting bolt. Further steps will be as follows:
- It is necessary to completely remove the clamping bar.
- Turn away the bottom mount, remove the spacer sleeve. After that, gently holding the generator (“Priora” is not very convenient in this regard), in cramped conditions, we completely remove the mounting bolt.
- It remains only to remove the clamping plate and completely remove the generator.
Accordingly, the installation of this part should be carried out in reverse order. If your goal is to replace the alternator belt on the Priore, you can proceed. After removing the old parts on the pulleys tensioned new belt. If the generator is removed, this is not difficult.
After that, never forget about the adjustment of the tension of the generator drive belt.
Is it possible to repair a burned generator?
Immediately, we’ll warn you that theoretically it can be done, only there will be so much work that it is much cheaper and easier to immediately buy a new part. But if you so wanted to show your abilities, you can try! Although in most cases the generator (“Priora” is no different from other cars) is an expendable part. The brushes and the bearing change there, and rewinding it is still a job.
What do you pay attention to when examining a generator that was removed and disassembled?
The most common problems include: short circuits between coils on the stator winding, broken rods (in the case of short-circuiting rotors), there are often cases of poor soldering in the winding (oh, this is domestic quality), as well as the banal closure of the same collector plates. You can determine them in the course of flaw detection, which includes the following activities:
- Test the quality of electrical insulation.
- Determining the degree of insulation on the winding.
- Evaluation of the quality of fit brushes.
Common causes of generator failure
Judging by the experience of domestic motorists, the most often to malfunction of the generator result in:
- Damage to the anchor lamellae, which often occur due to jamming of the brushes, which is even more often the case when there is no control over the degree of wear.
- Reconfiguration of the armature (including its mechanical deformation).
- Very often, the shaft of the anchor is completely worn out. It is assumed that this phenomenon is a consequence of the poor quality of the metal and the operation of the car in the conditions of the North.
- Often you can see the burned winding. This, again, happens when the part is initially of poor quality, as well as when operating the machine in a highly dusty area.
- Damage or complete slipping of the anchor bandage.
- Detection of mechanical defects of the gearbox: this happens if some kind of garbage gets onto the gearbox, or the pulley of the Priora alternator belt is worn out.
- Mechanical wear of other parts of the generator is possible. It is possible that this happened due to excessively strong tension of the generator belt.
That is what a Priora alternator belt can cause. 16 valves (engine) especially "sin" with this. However, on such motors, the belt tension should be monitored as often as possible, since otherwise “valve wedding” is not far off.
By the way, how can you even disassemble the VAZ Priora generator? Note that this will have to work a little. First, unscrew the three nuts on the rectifier unit, and then the two mounting sleeves on the “plus” terminal. If you do, then remove the sleeve will not be difficult.
On the static winding there are six conclusions that need to be most carefully soldered. The rectifier unit is removed from the generator. Using the tester (this is very important), check the rectifier diodes. If they are normal, the device will show the value of 580-620 Ohms. If it shows an infinitely large resistance, then the diodes are probably punctured. The entire rectifier unit, alas, is subject to complete replacement. This is how the positive and negative poles are checked.
Take a picture or mark the relative position of the generator covers. Unscrew the fixing bolts, and then, having picked up a screwdriver, remove the cover. Take out and carry out visual inspection of the stator. There should be no traces of anchors hitting him (we have already talked about this). If wear is noticeable, it does not hurt to change the bearings or the generator cover.
Insert the hex key into the shaft hole. Hold the shaft, unscrew it. Remove the pulley and washer from the generator shaft. Gently knock the wooden mallet out of the bindings. Do it very carefully: if the part subsequently does not fit into place normally, it will be torn out by the alternator belt rotating on the pulley. "Priora" - the car is quite reliable, but there is a limit to any strength. So take your time!
If during rotation of the bearing you feel a backlash, or crunching is clearly audible, be sure to replace not only this part, but also the cover of the generators. To change the bearing, you first need to unscrew the four fastening bolts of the washer, pull it out, and then everything else.
Other repair methods
So back to more serious topics. Is it possible to repair the generator? Lada "Priora" - a car that repeats the best domestic traditions. Simply put, it is quite simple, and therefore frankly “disposable” parts in it are few. So, in many cases, the generator can be brought back to life, even if something really serious happened to it. Especially often this happens in the event that time does not change the worn generator brushes. "Priora" while driving will, but the part will be hopelessly damaged.
When the brushes completely wear out, the wires completely rest against their holder, as a result of which they first begin to spark, and only then an arc arises, burning out the lamellas. This "disease" is most susceptible to the generator on the "Prior" with air conditioning, as it is the most powerful.
How to bring the anchor in working condition?
In industrial conditions, damages of this type are corrected by building up copper by electroplating and then grinding it on a lathe. As you understand, at home, not everyone has such an opportunity, and therefore we offer you an easier way to bring the generator into working condition.
First, thoroughly clean the anchor, and then process the collector to remove residual copper melted. Remove all visible short circuits between the lamellas, and then check the anchor on the PPJA and eliminate all hidden faults. Most often they do not fade completely, the “dovetail” completely inside the plastic mount remains more or less intact, and therefore does not fall out.
You need to thoroughly clean the burnt place with a boron or similar tool. It is necessary to find a small piece of wire of such diameter in order to fit it freely in the slot. The second piece should also pass freely into the expansion, tightly pressed against the other side of the groove. All this design should be kept in the nest as tightly as possible.
With the help of boron, the last remnants of copper are finally removed, the prepared wires are laid, and then they are properly treated with solder. Do not feel sorry for the material: the extra solder will still leak when a new lamella is soldered.
How to insert a “seal”?
Especially careful you need to be leveling the remnants of the insulator. An appropriately sized blank is cut out of a piece of high-quality copper. No need to strive for phenomenal accuracy: the main thing is that it is ideally suited to the width and provides convenience when soldering. She is also tampered with, not sparing the solder. Excessive solder and rosin will be squeezed out, and the remnants will firmly fix the disc in the prepared groove.
The seal is neatly laid on the prepared place, after which the sting of the heated soldering iron is placed on it. As soon as the solder melts and flows, the soldering iron needs to be removed and the seal firmly pressed (with a file, for example). After that, you just need to wait until the solder hardens again.
The excess is removed with a file and then machined on the machine, taking into account the ratio along the axes with the mounting spike, while trying to remove as little material as possible. If separate caverns and small deformations are revealed on the lamellae, then there is nothing wrong with that.
Of course, such a restoration method can cause legitimate bewilderment for those who have not met with it before, but such an anchor will work with honor until the brushes are completely worn out. Considering that a normal copper lamella will not withstand an arc from a fully worn brush, such repair can be considered more than satisfactory.
Once again, we remind you that replacing the generator on the Priore will in most cases be the best way out, since in this case you will spend much less time and effort on this operation. If you do not have the appropriate skills and a set of tools, then you should entrust this work to professionals from the service center.